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Costume History & Fashion Legends

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The compendium of fashion stories & mini essays that combine my special interest in the greatest secrets of historical fashion & costume legends. Since I have always liked to write stories and to find out the historical origins and development of the components of the costume, I have created content that shows the interaction between literary aspects and the work of fashion detective. 

Flower Crown: the origins and romantic statement

6/19/2018

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Vintage Beauty wearing The Flower Crown
Vintage Beauty wearing The Flower Crown Image: Google Search Results
Not only hippies, nature lovers, bohemian brides and creative souls, but also lovers of the floral symbols & aesthetics, from time to time, will choose the flower crowns or even flower wreaths to adorn themselves during summery events. The Midsummer is here and so many beauties will be crowned with flower wreaths, just like the ancient goddesses.... How did it begin in ancient times? That is the story of this entry. 


​The Winners of Olympic Games & Flower Goddesses of The Antiquity 

Bust of woman with a wreath of flowers around her head and a floral garland over her left shoulder, emblema of a floor mosaic. Roman mosaic of the Imperial era, 2nd century AD
Bust of woman with a wreath of flowers around her head and a floral garland over her left shoulder, emblema of a floor mosaic. Roman mosaic of the Imperial era, 2nd century AD Location: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York Image: Wikimedia Commons
Roman fresco of a woman with red hair wearing a garland of olives, from Herculaneum, made sometime before the city's destruction in 79 AD by Mount Vesuvius Date: 1st century AD
Roman fresco of a woman with red hair wearing a garland of olives, from Herculaneum, made sometime before the city's destruction in 79 AD by Mount Vesuvius Date: 1st century AD Image: Wikimedia Commons

​Wreaths of leaves and flowers have had symbolic meaning in Western culture for over 2,000 years. Even the name itself has originated in the ancient world. ​Ancient Greeks had a name for a wreath - στέφανος, that can be translated as stéfanos. Ancient Romans called it 'corona' in Latin. Both names were related to the habit of wearing it as a headgear made of leaves, grass, flowers and branches. Since ancient times the language of flowers and herbs was well-known, with each carrying its own meaning.In antiquity flower crowns and wreaths were typically worn on festive occasions and on holy days. 


The ancient Greeks first introduced the wreath which later became known as the crown - honorary reward for winners in Olympic games, athletic competitions, military, poetic, and also musical contests. It became a testimony to creativity and achievement. The Pythian Games were held at Delphi every four years in honor of Apollo. The winners traditionally received a wreath of bay laurel. The bay laurel tree is native to the Mediterranean region, and it was chosen as an important symbol of victory, achievement, and status. [9.] 

The use of the laurel wreath comes from the myth involving Apollo, Zeus' son and the god of life and light, who fell in love with the nymph Daphne. When he pursued her she fled and asked the river god Peneus to help her. Peneus turned her into a laurel tree. From that day, Apollo wore a wreath of laurel on his head.

In agrarian societies, tied to the land and the seasons, flower crowns and wreaths had great symbolic meaning. They were worn for practical and ceremonial reasons, they could illustrate status and accomplishment like it was in the cases of wearing Olympic olive wreaths. Such olive wreaths were awarded to winners of athletic competitions. Why exactly this choice? As the wild olive trees grew at Olympia where the Olympic games were held, - olive wreaths were given as prizes to winners. [9.] 
The past with the present is closely connected. Therefore, the wreath / flower crown is closely associated with Greek clothing and celebrations since ancient times, continuing a tradition to the modern day Olympic ceremonies. 

Flower crowns were also worn for various festivities and celebrations. Greeks wore flower crowns at important rites and events such as sacrifices to gods and during feasts. Greek men wore wreaths during aristocratic drinking parties called Symposia. They believed that wearing a fillet tight around their heads, it could ease their drunkenness...Such fillets were originally made of wool but later decorated with flowers and petals from roses, violets, myrtle, and parsley. [9.] 


Wreaths and flowers crowns were also a part of clothing in Ancient Rome. The Romans continued the tradition of the crown as a reward for triumph. Roman leaders and military personnel wore crowns made of laurel, oak, or myrtle. Laurel wreaths were used by military and public officials in parades. The wreaths made of olive leaves were worn by consuls and senators. The grass crown or corona obsidionalis was the highest military honor, awarded by a besieged army to the general who liberated them. It was made of grass, weeds, and wildflowers gathered on the spot where the army had been attacked. [9.] 

Not only men, but also women wore flower crowns in Ancient Rome. Since then they became a symbol of beauty and a fashion accessory.The Floralia festival was held in honor of Flora, goddess of flowers, vegetation, and spring. [9.]  That is why the headpiece made of flowers and interwoven wines was the important accessory. 
Ancient Romans invented the corona civica (the Civic Crown) that was a chaplet made of oak leaves woven to form a crown. During the Roman Republic and the subsequent Principate, it was regarded as the second highest military decoration to which a citizen could aspire. The Civic Crown was second after the Grass Crown. Such crown was reserved for Roman citizens who saved the lives of fellow citizens by slaying an enemy on a spot held by the enemy that same day. The citizen saved must admit it; no one else could be a witness. Later it became a prerogative for Roman Emperors, originating with Augustus, who was awarded it for saving the lives of citizens by ending the series of civil wars. Pliny the Elder wrote about the Civic Crown in his Naturalis Historia (Natural History).
It was Augustus who was granted the right to hang the corona civica above his door. This crown was usually held above the head of a Roman general during a triumph parade, with a person holding the crown charged to continually repeat to the general "memento mori" ("remember that you are mortal"). [8.]

Bust of Augustus, wearing the Corona Civica (Civic Crown)
Bust of Augustus, wearing the Corona Civica (Civic Crown) Glyptothek, Munich Image: Wikimedia Commons

Midsummer Wreaths 

The Līgo Crown of Flowers and Leaves, Latvia
The Līgo Crown of Flowers and Leaves, Latvia Image: Google Search
In northern European countries, where the winters are very long, very cold and very dark, the much-anticipated arrival of summer is definitely something to celebrate. The festival commemorating such an arrival is titled, Midsummer. It is celebrated on the summer solstice time (the longest day of the year in the northern hemisphere), which usually falls on June 21st. Depending on cultures and calendar the date for midsummer festivals varies, and can come as late as June 25th.

Jāņi is an annual Latvian festival celebrating the summer solstice. Although the solstice usually falls on 21 or 22 June, the public holidays - Līgo Day and Jāņi Day - are celebrated on 23 and 24 June. The day before Jāņi is known as Līgo Day or Zāļu Day/Eve.
​
One of the most important traditions of Midsummer celebration in Latvia (as well as in northern European countries) is making and wearing wreaths. Such c
ircular wreaths made of flowers, grasses and oak leaves are woven and worn on the head. Different types of plants are used to make wreaths for men and women. Women and girls wear wreaths made from flowers, grasses and herbs. It is believed that wreaths braided with twenty seven flowers and herbs prevents disasters and diseases, and repels enemies. Men and boys wear wreaths made of oak leaves, symbolizing the physical strength of the oak tree. Such oak wreaths are also symbols of the sun. [7.]



​Medieval & Renaissance Flower Crowns

The Month of May - enamoured noble couple with floral wreaths. ca. 1400.
The Month of May - enamoured noble couple with floral wreaths. ca. 1400. Image: Google Search
Although the flower crown was popular in the ancient world, as Christianity spread it fell out of favor due to its association with pagan festivals. [9.] 

​
However, the claim that the tradition of wearing flower crowns disappeared in Medieval Europe is incorrect. Under the influence of Christianity, medieval maidens wore rose chaplets, flower wreaths on their wedding day as well as during many religious ceremonies. This is evidenced by the medieval miniatures, as well as in Medieval art in general. In Christianity, the wreath represents the resurrection of Christ and therefore eternal life, more appropriately the victory of life over death.

In the 14th century, with the activation of secular culture, flower wreaths were worn more and more often. Noble knights and their ladies wore flower crowns during festive occasions at European royal courts.
Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Princess Sibylle of Cleve at the time of her betrothal to Electoral Prince John Frederick, 1526.
Lucas Cranach the Elder. Portrait of Princess Sibylle of Cleve at the time of her betrothal to Electoral Prince John Frederick, 1526. Location: Schloss Weimar, Thuringia, Germany Image: Wikimedia Commons

Interest in the antique culture returned the Renaissance era, and of course there was also a place for flower crowns. So they made a comeback in Renaissance art, as artists and scholars looked again to the classical past for inspiration.[9. ] 
During the Italian Renaissance (c. 15th–16th centuries), the custom of wearing wreaths on festive occasions was revived. [3.] 
​
Sandro Botticelli. Flora, goddess of spring and flowers off the large scale painting
Sandro Botticelli. Flora, goddess of spring and flowers off the large scale painting "Primavera", circa 1482. Location: Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence, Italy Image: Wikimedia Commons

The Glorious Return To Nature 

Flora by Claude Vignon, ca. 1630s
Flora by Claude Vignon, ca. 1630s Location: Residenzgalerie, Salzburg, Austria Image: Wikimedia Commons
The flower crown  experienced its grandiose return to the Baroque era of the 17th century, but an even greater impetus for its use arose in the late 18th century with Marie Antoinette. 
​

​Allegorical portraits of women as antique goddesses or mythological figures often feature flower crowns. However, at the end of the 18th century, they even became fashion statements. In the late 1770's and early 1780's, Marie Antoinette herself adopted the fashion trend that incorporated the beauty of nature. [2.] It was rather the artificial beauty of carefully chosen blooms to to compliment the less court-like gowns worn during pastoral entertainment parties at the Petit Trianon. Such flower crowns, rather than crowns of diamonds or gold, were the special accessories for a lady who wishes to emphasize its approach to nature and naturalness. 
​

From Victorian Brides & Pre-Raphaelites To Coachella 

Perdita by Frederick Sandys, circa 1866
Perdita by Frederick Sandys, circa 1866 Image: Wikimedia Commons
The 19th century came with romantic enthusiasm for the legacy of the past. Part of this enthusiasm was devoted to the floral language and the rebirth of antique, medieval and Renaissance motifs. 

At that time, they began to use flower wreaths as bridal crowns. As it turned out, even the bridal crown had its ancient roots. The Roman bride would wear a crown made of verbena that she herself had picked. In modern times, Queen Victoria made the practice fashionable by wearing a crown of orange blossoms in her hair on her wedding day to prince Albert on February 10, 1840. [9.] 
​
Queen Victoria brought flower crowns into popularity and and many brides followed that example. The flowers were an elegant addition to veils, which tied together the bridal style as lace and floral details were very popular at the time. [11.] 


While brides continued the ceremonial traditions of flower-wearing, it was the earth-mother hippies who have most influenced the accessory’s contemporary incarnation. From flower children to mighty Flower Power concept, flower crowns and wreaths have experienced countless conversions during the 20th Century and they returned in 21st Century as fashion statements for stage costumes, creative personalities and Coachella dwellers. All these flowers in their hair might signify connection to nature and its treasures.

The Trivia of Flower Crown

Joseph Karl Stieler. Portrait of Alexandra Iosifovna, Grand Duchess of Russia, circa 1850
Joseph Karl Stieler. Portrait of Alexandra Iosifovna, Grand Duchess of Russia, circa 1850. Image: Wikimedia Commons
And finally, let us note some name differences!

Wreath - A wreath is an arrangement of flowers, fruits, leaves, twigs, or other materials that are assembled to make a ring. It can be worn as a headband or used as decoration. 


Corolla/ Flower Crown - The term corolla or corollæ appears in a chapter in Pliny the Elder's Naturalis Historia. The term was used to describe a crown made from branches and twigs of trees worn by victors in sacred contests. So there was a flower crown. 

Chaplet (sometimes called 'corolla') - a wreath or garland for the head.  The name is derived from Old French chapelet - garland of roses, from chapel hat. [1.]


​References & Further Reading: 
1.www.thefreedictionary.com/chaplets
2.​vivelaqueen.blogspot.com/2015/11/18th-century-flower-crowns.html
3.​www.britannica.com/art/wreath-floral-decoration
4.​en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wreath
5.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Augustus
6.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midsummer
7.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%C4%81%C5%86i 
8.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civic_Crown​ 
9.blogs.getty.edu/iris/the-ancient-origins-of-the-flower-crown/
​10.www.vogue.com/article/flower-crowns-hair-frida-kahlo-kate-moss
11.​viva.media/history-of-the-flower-crown
12.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corolla_(chaplet)

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    My name is Edīte Parute and I am a fashion historian and researcher from Latvia, association member at "The Association of Dress Historians" (UK) and author of the book "Stila un modes enciklopēdija"/"Encyclopedia of Style and Fashion" (2010) as well as author of many publications. 
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    Symbolism And Meaning Of Tulip
    Symbolism In Art Nouveau Fashion
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    Symbolism Of The Color Green
    Talented Company
    Tartan
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    Tartan Pattern
    The Bustle
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    The Floral Language
    The History Of Knitting
    The Little Black Dress
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    The Origins Of Knitting
    The Pleated Skirt
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    Thigh-high Boots
    Thomas Burberry
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    Timeless Fashion
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    Turkey Red
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    Uncertain Regard
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    Walking Boots Of The 19th Century
    Wardrobe Essential
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    Wheel Hoop Skirts
    White
    White Bridal Dress
    White Clothing
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    White Dress
    White Tie Dress Code
    Widow's Weeds
    William Henry Perkin
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    Xmas Traditions
    Xystis
    Yellow
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