FashionologiaHistoriana
  • Home
  • About
  • Get in Touch
  • Costume History & Fashion Legends


Let The Fashion Fairytale Begin...

The Marvelous Beetle Wings Dress of Lady Macbeth...

7/5/2017

0 Comments

 
Bettle Wings Embroidery
John Singer Sargent. Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth, 1889 Tate Britain, London Image: Public Domain https://www.wikiart.org/en/john-singer-sargent/miss-ellen-terry-as-lady-macbeth-1889

Once again ... this is the story of a beetle wings dress. This time it's a stage costume, which once created a great sensation. The use of glamorous and glittering beetle wings as a Victorian costume decoration was not just a manifestation of the 19th-century décor aesthetics. On the doorsteps of Edwardian fashion age the world was struck by impressive drama and marvelous stage performance costume that caused a sensation. Indeed. What a great combination!
The famous British actress Dame Ellen Terry (1847-1928) was immortalized in the role of Lady Macbeth by John Singer Sargent who made a painted portrait of her just after attendance of the play "Macbeth". Sargent was one of the most famous society painters of the late 19th century. He attended the premiere of the new production of the play "Macbeth" at the Lyceum Theater in London on December 29, 1888... The painter was deeply thrilled at the sight of Ellen Terry in the role of Lady Macbeth. The famous American painter was deeply impressed by the depiction of the role of Lady Macbeth. And, of course, he was thrilled by the look of British actress and her iridescent greenish blue stage costume that was embroidered with the glittering beetle wings. 
Shortly after the show, followed an invitation to pose for the creation of the portrait. In 1889, the world became acquainted with a completely different lady Macbeth! Her dramatically highlighted posture, holding a crown of the next Scottish Queen raised above head, was Sargent's invention and as such, it was not seen previously in the "Macbeth"
​

Legendary Stage Costume

So, Ellen Terry wore the legendary glittering green beetle wing stage costume that caused such a sensation... The Celtic Queen's dress with long, downward wrapped sleeves, a simple cut line and a low-waisted, heavy metal belt were inspired by Pre-raffaelite Movement and a Medieval atmosphere. Also it was a direct echo of the ideal of the Aesthetic Movement, so well-known at that time. As such it glorified the steam of the Medieval and early Italian Renaissance epoch. A particularly dramatic sentiment was also attributed to the deep red velvet cape with the relics of the heraldic golden glittering griffins / Scottish lions. 


​Restoration and the Revival of the Legend

Legendary beetle wings stage costume, that Ellen Terry once was wearing, turned into the greatest challenge for a restorers of the 21st century.  The total reconstruction effort was worth 110,000 pounds. After five years of responsible work, stage costume was restored with all 1000 beetle wing units embroidered on it. During that time restorers spent 700 hours of work trying to restore the former beauty of costume. 
Restoration process was completed in 2011. Once the actress Ellen Terry admired her stage costume that she was wearing as Lady Macbeth. Even the writer, dandy and celebrity of Aesthetic Movement - Oscar Wilde was so thrilled by its beauty! And finally, it was publicly on display at the Ellen's former abode - Smallhy the Place, where it came after many years of oblivion. ​

Costume Designer & Creator of the Unique Image   ​

Ellen Terry, who was playing the role of Lady Macbeth, was creating also the impression of a peculiar hybrid - the Medieval Knight and the Serpent. The Costume, indeed, recalls symbolic dualism - synthesis of female warrior and snake - avatar which is represented in the role of Lady Macbeth. That is precisely the image designed by 
Alice Comyns Carr. She was a famous defender of Aesthetic Movement ideals, who at that time created many stage costumes. The materialization of the idea took place with the help of tailor Ada Nettleship. Importantly, the effort of represantatives of the Aesthetic Movement were focused on glorification of Medieval and Renaissance past. Their romanticized desires were contrasting with the impact of industrialization of that time. Being strict advocates and protectors of wildlife, aesthetes rejected sacrifice of beetles in the creation process of costume. But the beetles also weren't killed for their magnificent wings! The magnificent beetles, whose bright wings are used for decorations and costume jewelery, did not actually die. They periodically dropped wings, so the main task was a complicated process of collecting them, which was uneasy, especially  for making such a lavishly decorated costume. However, the final result surprised, fascinated and led the audience to a distant antiquity which paved the fabulous imaginative scene.
​

Did Ellen Terry and her contemporaries really made a resonance on the stage of the Latvian theater? Even if, it happened with a delay of several decades...?

The play "Fire and Night" (Uguns un Nakts) written by Latvian poet Rainis in 1911 was able to create quite a similar impression as it happened with Ellen Terry's iridescent green stage costume for her role of Lady Macbeth. The play "Fire and Night" and its femme fatale Spīdola in her dramatically dark and glittering stage costume appears to be a significant echo of the Shakespeare's drama of Lady Macbeth. Two actors played the complex role in the premiere: Tija Banga, then, alternately with her - Lilija Ērika. Since the two actors were very different, they also represented two different characters of Spīdola. 

Click Here To See The Images:

In fact, the Spidola's costume is really close to Lady Macbeth's glamorous, iridescent stage outfit. But its restraint look along with the elements of the luminous brilliance is a portrait of the Latvian string in the festive period of the Art Nouveau style, when the society was still addressing both - the form of expression of symbolism and the dramatic increase in feelings and even oriental mood.
The play's "Fire and Night" scenographer Jānis Kuga, who was making decorations, had seriously
studied at that time the not-so-familiar Latvian ethnography - ornaments, costumes, Latvian farmhouse architecture ... And eventually created a picture that was local emphasis on European moods and trends.




Further reading and sources:
​

www.tate.org.uk 
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/smallhythe-place 
www.theguardian.com 
​
www.preraphaelitesisterhood.com
​​http://www.aspazijarainis.lv/sena-dziesma-jaunas-skanas-raina-lugas-uguns-un-nakts-pirmiestudejums-1911-gada/
0 Comments

    Archives

    January 2021
    December 2020
    August 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    February 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017

    Categories

    All
    16th Century Fashion
    1780s Fashion
    17th Century Jewelry
    17th Century Rings
    1870's Fashion
    18th Century Breeches
    18th Century Costume
    18th Century Fashion
    18th Century Hairstyles
    18th Century Jewelry
    18th Century Menswear
    18th Century Rings
    1900s Fashion
    1920s Fashion
    1950s Fashion
    19th Century Fashion
    19th Century Menswear
    19th Century Milliners
    20th Century Fashion Design
    20th Century Millinery
    Aesthetic Movement
    Aigrette
    Albert Lesage
    Alice Jopling
    A-Line
    Alternative Fashion
    Ambergris
    Ancient Bikini
    Ancient Braids
    Ancient Crete
    Ancient Egypt
    Ancient Greece
    Ancient Greek Art
    Ancient Hairpins
    Ancient Hairstyles
    Ancient Legends
    Ancient Milliners
    Ancient Revival Style
    Ancient Rings
    Anglomania
    Aniline Dyes
    Animal Prints
    Apkallu
    Applique Embroidery
    Aquascutum
    Aran Knitwear
    Aran Sweaters
    Archeology
    Arlecchino
    Art And Craft
    Art Deco Fashion
    Arthur Boy Capel
    Art Nouveau
    Art Nouveau Jewelry
    Art Nouveau Rings
    Art Nouveau Style
    Arts And Crafts Movement
    Asia Minor
    Audrey Hepburn
    Azurite
    Backenbart
    Balaclava
    Balenciaga
    Ball Gown
    Balmoral Cap
    Barbette
    Basket
    Basket Bag
    Bauta
    Beach Pyjamas
    Beard Fashion
    Beau Brummel
    Beauty And The Beast
    Beetle Wings
    Beetle Wings Embroidery
    Bell Bottoms
    Belted Raincoat
    Benzoin
    Beret
    Bettina Blouse
    Bettina Graziani
    Bicorn Hat
    Bikini
    Bikini Girls
    Black
    Black Attire
    Black Clothing
    Black Dress
    Black Tie Dress Code
    Blazer
    Blue Denim
    Blue Dye
    Blue Jeans
    Bluestockings
    Boater Hat
    Boho Brides
    Bolinus Brandaris
    Bonnet
    Bonnette
    Border Tartan
    Botanical
    Botanical Jewelry
    Bouquet De Corsage
    Bouquet Holder
    Boutonniere
    Bowler Hat
    Braid
    Braided Hairstyles
    Breakfast At Tiffany's
    Breton Shirt
    Bridal Veil
    Brown
    Brown Clothing
    Brunswick Gown
    Bucket Bag
    Bum Roll
    Calamistrum
    Calash Bonnet
    Calathos
    Cannes 2017
    Cannes International Film Festival 2017
    Canotier
    Cap
    Cappucio
    Capsule Wardrobe
    Cardigan
    Carl Wilhelm Scheele
    Carmel Snow
    Carnival Masks
    Carole
    Caroline Reboux
    Castellani
    Cavalier Hat
    Cecil Beaton
    Chalk Stripes
    Chandelier Earrings
    Chanel
    Chanel Handbag
    Chanel No.5
    Chanel Suit
    Chapelet
    Chaperon
    Chaplet
    Charioteer Of Delphi
    Charles Baudelaire
    Charles Frederick Worth
    Charles Macintosh
    Checkerboard Pattern
    Check Pattern
    Cheetah Print
    Chessboard Pattern
    Chevalier Style Mustache
    Chintz
    Chiton
    Choker
    Choker Necklace
    Christian Dior
    Christmas Traditions
    Circle Dance
    Classic Pattern
    Cloche Hat
    Cluster Rings
    Coachella Flower Crowns
    Cochineal
    Coco Chanel
    Collier Du Chien
    Colombina
    Color Brown
    Color Green
    Color Orange
    Color Pink
    Color White
    Color Yellow
    Comma Heel
    Corde-style Hat
    Cornucopia
    Corolla
    Corolle Line
    Corona
    Corona Civica
    Corona Obsidionalis
    Corsage
    Corseted Bodice
    Costume Jewelry
    Court Dress
    Coverchief
    Crakows
    Cravat
    Crinoline Era
    Cristobal Balenciaga
    Crossed-loop Knitting
    Crotalia Earrings
    Cubist Sweaters
    Cuff Links
    Culottes
    Dandyism
    Dangling Earrings
    Decolletage
    Decollete
    Dog Collar
    Domino Costume
    Domino Mask
    Dormeuse
    Dress Code
    Dress History
    Druidism
    Duffel Cloth
    Duffle Coat
    Earrings
    East India Company
    Eco-friendly Fabrics
    Edwardian Fashion
    Edward Steichen
    Ellen Terry
    Elsa Schiaparelli
    Embroidery
    Embroidery House
    Emerald Green
    Emile Pingat
    Empress Sisi
    Ernest Beaux
    Escoffion
    Eugene Grasset
    Evening Dress
    Evening Jacket
    Faience Ring
    Fair Isle
    Fair Isle Sweaters
    Fairy-tale
    False Beard
    Farthingale
    Fascinator Hat
    Fashion Brand From Latvia
    Fashion Design In Latvia
    Fashion Engravings
    Fashion History
    Fashion Journalism
    Fashion Trendsetter
    Fede Ring
    Femme Fatale
    Festons
    Fillet
    Finger Rings
    First Corsets
    First Fashion Reviews
    Fishtail Braid
    Flamenco Dress
    Flammeum
    Floral
    Floral Cloth Pattern
    Floralia
    Floral Patterns
    Floral Print
    Flounces
    Flower Basket
    Flower Children
    Flower Crown
    Flower Power
    Forget-me-not
    Francisco José De Goya Y Lucientes
    Francois Lesage
    Francois Pinet
    Freedom Monument
    French Fashions Of 17th Century
    French Jewelry
    Frills
    Gabardine
    Gaelic Culture
    Gangster Suit
    Ganseys
    Garconne
    Garland
    Giardinetti Rings
    Gibus Hat
    Gimmel Rings
    Gingham
    Gingham Fabric
    Gingham Pattern
    Giraffe Print
    Girandole Earrings
    Glamour Style
    Goddess Flora
    Golden Diadem Of Troy
    Golden Jewellery
    Goth Fashion
    Grande Mademoiselle
    Grande Parure
    Grandes Cocottes
    Grand Habit
    Grass Crown
    Green
    Gugel
    Habit A L'anglaise
    Hair Accessories
    Hair Comb
    Hair Jewelry
    Half-mask
    Hand Knitting
    Hans Christian Andersen
    Hat
    Hat With A Veil
    Haute Couture
    Headgear
    Heart Rings
    Heinrich Schliemann
    Helmut Newton
    Hennin
    Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec
    Henri Vever
    Hidden Treasures
    Highland Dress
    History Of Cloth Patterns
    History Of Color
    History Of Costume
    History Of Fashion
    History Of Footwear
    History Of Hairstyle
    History Of Handbag
    History Of Hat
    History Of Headgear
    History Of Jewelry
    History Of Medieval Shoes
    History Of Menswear
    History Of Purple Dye
    History Of Red
    History Of Rings
    History Of Ruffles In Dress
    History Of Shoe Design
    History Of Swimwear
    History Of Textile Patterns
    History Of The Color
    History Of The Stripes
    H-Line
    Homburg Hat
    Hood
    Hoodie
    Hoop Skirts
    Horseshoe Rings
    Houndstooh Check
    House Of Balenciaga
    House Of Dior
    House Of Givenchy
    House Of Worth
    Hubert De Givenchy
    Iliad By Homer
    Indienne
    Indigo
    Iniohos
    Innovative Shoe Design
    Intarsia Sweaters
    Iveta Vecmane
    Ivy League
    Jabot
    Jacobins
    Jacques Joseph Tissot
    Jaguar Print
    James Tissot
    Jāņi
    Japonisme
    Jean-Baptiste Colbert
    Jean Patou
    Jersey Costume
    Jewel-beetle
    Jewelry Hair Comb
    Jingling Earrings
    John-singer-sargent
    Jugendstil
    Jumper
    Kathleen Newton
    Kilt
    Kimono Coat
    Kissing-Bough
    Kissing Under The Mistletoe
    Knitted Fabric
    Knitted Garments
    Knitted Socks
    Knitted Stockings
    Knitting
    Knitting History
    Knitwear
    Knossos Palace
    Labdanum
    Lace Workshops
    Lady Macbeth
    Lapis Lazuli
    Latvian Fashion Brands
    Laura Selecka
    Laurel Wreath
    LBD
    Legends Of Troy
    Le Mercure Galant
    Léonard Autié
    Leopard Print
    Lesage
    Le Smoking
    Liberty Cap
    Līgo
    Lilacs
    Lillie Langtry
    Lily Of The Valley
    Lily Of The Valley Embroidery
    Liripipe
    Little Black Dress
    Lock Of Youth
    Lotus Blossom
    Louise Jopling
    Louis Reard
    Louis XIV
    Luxury Consumption
    Madame De Pompadour
    Maison Lesage
    Maison Vever
    Mantilla
    Mantua
    Mariano Fortuny
    Mariano Fortuny Y Madrazo
    Marie-Antoinette Hairstyle
    Marine Style
    Marlene Dietrich
    Mask
    Masquerades
    Matelot
    Mauve Color
    Mauveine
    Mechanical Knitting Machine
    Medieval Dance
    Medieval Dance Costumes
    Medieval Dances
    Medieval Dress
    Medieval Fashion
    Medieval Feast
    Medieval Life
    Medieval & Renaissance Goldsmiths
    Medieval Rings
    Medieval Shoes
    Melancholy
    Memento Mori Rings
    Michonet
    Midsummer
    Military Style Fashion
    Millinery
    Minoan Snake Goddess
    Mistletoe
    Moretta
    Morocco Leather
    Mourning Dress
    Mummy Brown
    Murex
    Musk
    Mustard Yellow
    Nalbindning
    Nankeen
    Nankeen Cloth
    Navy Blue
    Neo Classical Style
    Neo-classical Style
    Non-trend Fashion
    Norma Smallwood
    Nosegay
    Nostradamus
    Opera Coat
    Orange
    Orientalism
    Orientalism In Fashion
    Oriental Shoes
    Orpiment
    Out (film)
    Panniers
    Pantalone
    Paris Green
    Pastel
    Pattens
    Paul Poiret
    Perfume Cone
    Perfumery
    Petasos
    Petasus
    Philip Treacy
    Phoenicians
    Phrygian Cap
    Pigaches
    Pikes
    Pilgrim Pumps
    Pink
    Pinstripes
    Plaid
    Poesy Rings
    Pointed Shoes
    Poison Rings
    Polka Dot
    Polka Dot Pattern
    Polo Collar
    Polo Neck
    Polo Shirt
    Pomander
    Pomatum
    Pomme D'ambre
    Pomona
    Pom-pom Hat
    Porte Bouquet
    Portrait Of Tadea Arias De Enríquez
    Possamenterie
    Posy
    Pouf Hairstyle
    Poulaine
    Poulaines
    Preppy
    Preppy Dress
    Printed Cloths
    Promenade Boots
    Pullovers
    Purple
    Purple Dye
    Queen's Gambit
    Raincoat
    Rational Cosnsumption
    Realgar
    Red
    Red Carpet Event
    Red Dye
    Red Heels
    Redingote
    Red Ochre
    Red Pigments
    Renaissance Rings
    Rene Lalique
    Retro Style
    Riding Coat
    Rings
    Roaring Twenties
    Robe A La Francaise
    Robert Piguet
    Rockabilly Look
    Rococo Fashion
    Rococo Haistyles
    Roger Vivier
    Romano-Egyptian Burials
    Roots Of The Fashion Industry
    Rose Pompadour
    "rose Tablet"
    Roseus
    Rosy
    Royal Purple
    Ruff
    Ruffled Skirts
    Ruffles
    Saffron
    Scallops
    Scarab Rings
    Schweinfurt Green
    Scottish Clan Dress
    Scottish Tartan
    Scull Cap
    Sculptural Style
    Seal Rings
    Sentimental Rings
    Shoe Design
    Shoe Designer
    Shoe Maker
    Shoulder Bag
    Signet Rings
    Silk Cape
    Sillitoe Tartan
    Sir Arthur Evans
    Sisi's Stars
    Sleeve Buttons
    Smoking Cap
    Smoking Jacket
    Snake Goddess Figurines
    Snake Rings
    Sofia Lark
    Solana
    Spanish Farthingale
    Spanish Hoop Skirt
    Spanish Maja Costume
    Sporran
    Stage Costume
    Steeple Head-dress
    Stiletto Heel
    Stockings
    Stomacher
    Striped Cloth
    Striped Cloth Pattern
    Stripes
    Strophium
    Subligaculum
    Sumptuary Laws
    Sustainable Fashion
    Sweater Season
    Swedish Hat
    Symbolism In Art Nouveau Fashion
    Symbolism Of Colors
    Symbolism Of The Color Green
    Talented Company
    Tartan
    Tartan Cloth
    Tartan Pattern
    The Bustle
    The Cardigan Sweater
    The Civic Crown
    The Column Type Dress
    The Delphos Gown
    The Dinner Jacket
    The Egyptian Blue
    The Falkirk Tartan
    The Floral Language
    The History Of Knitting
    The Little Black Dress
    The Merry Widow Hat
    The Mistletoe
    The New Look
    The Origins Of Knitting
    The Pleated Skirt
    The Red Shoes
    The Shoulder Plaid
    Thigh-high Boots
    Thomas Burberry
    Tiger Print
    Tight Lacing
    Timeless Fashion
    Toga Virilis
    Toggle Fastening
    Toggles
    Tontillo
    Top Hat
    Tournure
    Travis Banton
    Treasures Of Helen Of Troy
    Treasures Of King Priam
    Trenchcoat
    Tricorne
    Tricorn Hat
    Trilby Hat
    Trojan War
    Trompe-l'oeil
    Tulipes Hollandaises
    Tulip Mania
    Turkey Red
    Tussie-mussie
    Tussie-mussies
    Tuxedo
    Tyrian Purple
    Ultramarine
    Ultra-Violet
    Uncertain Regard
    Valentino Red
    Veil
    Veiled
    Veiled Dancer
    Victorian Fashion
    Victorian Rings
    Villa Romana Del Casale
    Vintage Fashion
    Violet
    Visard Mask
    Vita Radziņa
    Vivienne Westwood
    Volto
    Waistcoat
    Walking Boots Of The 19th Century
    Wardrobe Essential
    Wasp Waist
    Watch-ring
    Waterproof Materials
    Wedding Rings
    Wedgwood Jasperware Rings
    Wheel Hoop Skirts
    White
    White Bridal Dress
    White Clothing
    White Collar And Cuffs
    White Dress
    White Tie Dress Code
    Widow's Weeds
    Wilhelm Lucas Von Cranach
    William Henry Perkin
    William Lee
    William Morris
    Woad
    Wooden Clogs
    Wreath
    Xmas Traditions
    Xystis
    Yellow
    Yellow Gold
    Yellow Journalism
    Yellow Nankeen
    Yellow Pigment
    Y-Line
    Yves Saint Laurent
    Zebra Print
     1960s Fashion

    RSS Feed

Layout and wallpaper made with Weebly website building tools
Copyright © FashionologiaHistoriana, 2021
  • Home
  • About
  • Get in Touch
  • Costume History & Fashion Legends